The KitchenAid:
Shared Cultural Nostalgia for Past Ideas of Progress
Julia Wohlforth
Citation: Julia Wohlforth, “The KitchenAid: Shared Cultural Nostalgia for Past Ideas of Progress,” The Coalition of Master’s Scholars on Material Culture, February 12, 2021.
Abstract: First invented in 1908 for professional bakers, the KitchenAid was already being marketed to women for their homes by 1919, and within a few years had become a staple of prosperous suburban homes. The KitchenAid holds a surprising amount of meaning in the American mind. Over the years the KitchenAid has become a cultural symbol of prosperity, progression, idyllic suburbia, female duty, and family values. The history of the KitchenAid connects closely with a major shift that was occurring in America at the turn of the 20th century. Domestic servants were falling out of favor and suddenly affluent women were responsible for the domestic tasks in their homes. Tools like the KitchenAid made this possible, but also increased standards, and created a middle class ideal of home economics, an idea of a wife who is expert in her home duties. Kitchen appliances became a symbol of the American future, a new woman, and a new home. Paradoxically evoking ideas of both modernization and traditional domesticity, the KitchenAid maintains its multiplicity of meanings through its design. An unchanging aesthetic which balances beauty, functionality, and durability, has made the KitchenAid iconic, and has endowed it with a sentimentality that traverses generations, a sentimentality for the future its past users imagined.
Keywords: KitchenAid, American history, twentieth century, gender roles and expectations, technology and culture
The KitchenAid that sits in my kitchen represents a familiar story. It was passed down from mother to daughter, much loved and oft used, its age impossible to determine because its design matches both KitchenAids made decades ago, and those made today. First invented in 1908 for professional bakers, the KitchenAid was already being marketed to women for their homes by 1919, and within a few years had become a staple of prosperous suburban homes. The KitchenAid holds a surprising amount of meaning in the American mind. Over the years the KitchenAid has become a cultural symbol of prosperity, progression, idyllic suburbia, female duty, and family values. The history of the KitchenAid connects closely with a major shift that was occurring in America at the turn of the 20th century. Domestic servants were falling out of favor and suddenly affluent women were responsible for the domestic tasks in their homes. Tools like the KitchenAid made this possible, but also increased standards, and created a middle-class ideal of home economics, an idea of a wife who is expert in her home duties. Kitchen appliances became a symbol of the American future, a new woman, and a new home. Paradoxically evoking ideas of both modernization and traditional domesticity, the KitchenAid maintains its multiplicity of meanings through its design. An unchanging aesthetic which balances beauty, functionality, and durability, has made the KitchenAid iconic, and has endowed it with a sentimentality that traverses generations, a sentimentality for the future its past users imagined.
There are traces of the KitchenAid’s origin story in its design, traces of the short period when it did not yet have the iconic appearance it has today. According to the brand, inventor Herbert Johnson noticed that bakers in industrial kitchens were doing the hard work of mixing by hand, and invented a machine that at the time he dubbed the “mixing machine” to be used in professional kitchens.[1] The first model, the H model, became standard on Navy ships for its sturdy and reliable practicality.[2] When the company began marketing the KitchenAid for home use, a largely female sales force was used and the design was changed to be more pleasing to the eye, yet the industrial sturdiness and practicality remained in the bones of the machine, even as the prettier K model was rolled out in 1937.[3] The legendary story of the KitchenAid's naming is popularly known, though impossible to authenticate. Apparently, Herbert Johnson, who could not decide on a name for his new contraption, sent some of his new mixers home with other higher ups at his company for their wives to use. After using it, one wife told Johnson, she did not care what he called it, but it was the best ‘kitchen aid’ she had ever had.[4] Built for industry, beautified for the home, and named by a housewife, the KitchenAid began its long residence in the American mind.
The iconic sleek design of the KitchenAid is intrinsically tied up in not only the history of the device, that of industrial origins turned to home focused marketing, but also in the way that the KitchenAid has come to be seen. The time period during which the KitchenAid gained and maintained its popularity has been one of great social change, of shifting identities, politics, and ideals. The design of the KitchenAid therefore, largely unchanged since it was beautified for the K model in 1937, has been wrapped up in, and integral to a lot of bigger ideas, taking on far more meaning than most kitchen appliances.
As the 19th century was drawing to a close, there began to be a shift in how domestic tasks were being thought about, a shift that is very relevant to the rise of the KitchenAid. At this time, a move away from reliance on domestic service was resulting in more affluent women becoming responsible for the cooking in their homes.[5] This was certainly not an immediate process, as domestic service remained the standard for decades, but it set off a change in the standards that would evolve through the turmoil of the first half of the 20th century. This standard was that of middle-class identity, an identity that was also an ideal. Going hand in hand with that ideal, was the unstated assumption that women would take on the extra work when servants departed. This assumption only became more ubiquitous as the 20th century progressed and is very evident in KitchenAid ads. Nearly every KitchenAid ad through the 1960s features a woman using the machine. Some feature no user. None feature a male user. One ad states, “easier for YOU- and you owe it to HIM.”[6] This clear expectation of the wife cooking meals for her husband and family, placed a large burden on women. The heavy workload of a not yet modernized kitchen was unmanageable for many women who were used to hired help.[7] Expensive appliances like the KitchenAid made this shift possible, and at the same time redefined gender roles and ideas of status in very complicated ways.
The change in lifestyle that accompanied a modernized kitchen became very connected to the idea of progress in the early to mid-20th century, particularly in the period of prosperity following the Second World War. In her piece, “Object Lessons: Household Appliance Design and the American Middle Class,” Shelley Nickles has examined this relationship, saying, “the kitchen became the center of corporate, governmental and cultural reformers’ efforts to ‘modernize’ the home.”[8] This became tied to the marketing of kitchen appliances like the KitchenAid, and encouraged progress through consumerism. One advertisement from 1930 promises that a “KitchenAid banishes all the ‘antiques’ from the modern kitchen.”[9] The competition for the attention of middle-class consumers led to developments of increasingly “bigger and flashier” appliances.[10] KitchenAid did not change their iconic design, but they did introduce successively more products unified in aesthetic to their basic mixer, building on their brand and capitalizing on the consumerist side of modernization.[11]
When trying to think of cultural associations with the KitchenAid, there is one image that immediately comes to mind. That image is one of a 1950s housewife, baking cakes for her working husband. This is because gender and ideas of women’s roles became very much wrapped up in the conversations of modernism, consumerism, and the emerging middle-class ideal. Many affluent women were resistant to the shift from household duties being the charge of domestic servants to being that of wives. Lucy Delap’s analysis of sources from women in the mid-century concludes that “the idealized housewife that dominates popular memory of the 1950s seems curiously hard to find, and the voices expressing boredom and frustration at housework are by no means silenced within these sources.”[12] Many wealthy women found they no longer had the time for the sort of public service roles that servant’s work had once afforded them.[13] While many sources indicate that women didn’t always prefer this new ideal, the rhetoric coming from brands relied on a more rosy picture of suburban domesticity.
Marketing from brands like KitchenAid worked hard to cement their place in the cultural zeitgeist as agents of progress and power. Advertising claimed that women had increased power due to their role as the primary consumer for their household, that their consumerism required expertise, discernment, and was a vital job. KitchenAid advertisements drew on these ideas, with taglines like, “more power to you!” in their 1945 print campaign.[14] Scholarly thought trended in a similar direction, with intellectuals like Walter Lippmann arguing that “women’s power in society would derive from their role as modern housewives and consumers.”[15] The idea of housewives, therefore, became closely tied with these ideas of progress.
In many ways the modernization of the kitchen was seen as parallel to the industrial revolution a few decades prior, and tools like the KitchenAid were the technological improvements to that sphere that would bring homes into the future. Women activists such as Catherine Beecher called for the professionalization of the domestic sphere, writing treatise on the importance of women understanding home economics in a scholarly way so they could properly run their homes.[16] Between scholarly and marketing pushes, there emerged a new expectation that, “it was up to housewives to provide modern middle-class standards for their family through ownership of up-to-date, modern styled household appliances.”[17] Considering this mix of messaging, and dizzyingly quick changing of expectations, it is unsurprising that such a multitude of meanings have become attached to the KitchenAid. The connection one makes today upon viewing the device are undoubtedly an inherited mix of standards and ideas that were established at this time.
The industrial efficiency and accents in the KitchenAid’s design are likely partially due to its origin in industrial bakeries and navy ships, but that rhetoric of industrializing the domestic space may have influenced their choice to keep those design aspects in the version meant for homes. If kitchen work was being posed as a professional and powerful role for women to step into, then it makes sense to advertise professional and efficient tools. Furthermore, women were expected to be smart consumers, this agency was posed as their power. In this way, choosing a high-quality machine, marketed as the best of the best, was success in this realm. Beyond this, the huge increases in work expectations for the sort of affluent women who could afford a KitchenAid, was a burden that a very efficient kitchen tool could alleviate to a degree. The beauty of the design, which is so fluidly mixed in with the industrial aspects speaks to another of the many symbolic meanings of the KitchenAid, that of status.
The KitchenAid is notorious for being very expensive. Today a consumer might expect to spend around $300 for a new machine, a large expense for most. They used to cost far more. When KitchenAids first hit the market for home consumers they cost $189, which adjusted for inflation is about $2000 today.[18] This meant that only the wealthiest of families could afford to buy one, which did slow the growth in popularity, but simultaneously defined its reputation. Kim Voss, author of Re-Evaluating Women’s Page Journalism in the Post-World War II Era, has spoken on the KitchenAid’s spread through word of mouth among the upper class, saying “It was very much ‘I have to have this because so-and-so has it.”[19] Quickly, owning a KitchenAid became a status symbol in a culture that no longer expected the wealthy to keep servants. The status aspect of the KitchenAid is as relevant today as ever, a sign for many that one’s life is stable and affluent, a sign of idealized middle-class adulthood.
The markers of adulthood have, to a degree, changed since the 1950s, but many traditions live on. For example, KitchenAids have traditionally been given as wedding presents, among other objects meant to set up a new couple in their new independent home. Even though this idea is no longer really relevant, and most couples getting married today have already established independent lives outside their parent’s homes, the KitchenAid remains a very popular wedding gift. Many articles on KitchenAids cite anecdotes of young people saying they dream of getting a KitchenAid for a wedding gift someday. An article from 2011 by Aimee Tjader emblazoned with the title “Modern brides still pine for iconic mixer” cites the statistic that 65% of brides put a KitchenAid on their wedding registries. She writes, “these brides say the best thing about getting married – besides falling in love—is finally being able to satisfy their thirst for nostalgia and adorn their countertops with the Holy Grail of wedding presents.”[20] The exact nature of the status symbol has thus shifted a bit. Of course, the price is still a factor, but additionally a KitchenAid announces that the owner has reached a certain stage in life, and that they fit into some unspecified nostalgic ideal, an ideal many would be unable to articulate, but that the unchanging design has, perhaps, preserved.
The idea of nostalgia is essential to the continued iconic nature of the KitchenAid, and is again, very wrapped up in its design and appearance. In my mind, there are two types of nostalgia attached to the machine, personal and cultural. Personal nostalgia is what occurs when the KitchenAid reminds a user of a time in their own lives when they used a KitchenAid. Many people I have spoken to have memories attached to the KitchenAid brand, of cooking with their mothers or grandmothers. This becomes intensified when the specific KitchenAid has been passed down through generations and thus becomes a tangible connection to people of the past. Using a tool like this and enacting the same motions and activities enacted by ancestors, especially when it is the exact same tool, is a powerful moment of connection.[21] Tjader quotes a bride saying, “my grandma had a pink one, and I specifically remember her teaching me how to make her cookies in her mixer […] I tried to pick a color that would transcend through the years—one that when my kids thought of growing up, they’d think back to making cookies in the kitchen with the red mixer.”[22] There are few items like this that manage to evade obsolescence so fully, and that’s part of why the KitchenAid functions so well for this purpose. Its design and quality ensure that it remains functional for generations to use in the same way, thus cementing its importance in that area.
While personal nostalgia over an object may vary a bit from person to person, the cultural nostalgia surrounding the KitchenAid is a bit more standard but less straightforward. For many, the nostalgic ‘retro’ feeling attached to the KitchenAid is for a time that they never actually experienced. I think of a classic 1950s housewife when I look at a KitchenAid, even though I was not alive during that time, and in fact, that time probably never actually existed in quite the way I imagine it.[23] The time I am imagining is something of a fabrication, a memory created out of advertising. Yet many would attribute this nostalgia with the lion's share of KitchenAid’s continued success as a brand. Margaret Park Johnson writes, “nostalgia for that earlier time, along with an appreciation for the efficiency of the machine, brings buyers back to this iconic element in the contemporary kitchen.”[24] Every association to the KitchenAid that has been discussed thus far, from status, to adulthood and marriage, to generational connection, to progress and the modern, to classic womanhood, can be tied up into one vague sense of nostalgia, one that just keeps selling machines.
The funny thing is that early KitchenAid advertising was working to create an image of the future, not of the past. As discussed previously, much of the call for functional kitchen appliances was tied to the creation of a new and modernized middle class. In her consideration of the history of household technology, Ruby Roy Dholakia makes a helpful reference. She writes, “the Jetsons, a popular TV series from the 1960s features characters comfortably navigating what seemed futuristic technologies.”[25] The Jetsons family, to me, encapsulates the paradox of the KitchenAid nostalgia. It posits a technological future from a perspective that is now the distant past, and inserts characters whose expectations of social relationships are also of that distant past into their vision of the future. Viewed today, the show feels like a purer nostalgic lens into the way people in the 1960s thought about their world, than even a show set in the 1960s would. In the same way, examining how people at the time believed kitchen technology would shape their society and social relationships reveals a great deal about how people thought at the time. The Jetsons comparison also helps to reconcile the apparent inconsistency of meanings within the KitchenAid. How can one machine symbolize both progress and tradition? Perhaps the nostalgia we feel in looking at the KitchenAid is, in part, a nostalgia for that sort of hope and wonderment about what the future might hold.
It is possible to extrapolate these ideas to the bigger picture and consider not just the KitchenAid, but the way homes and domestic spaces are designed and imagined in American culture. In her examination of suburban domestic design Holly Wlodarczyk comes to a conclusion about the relationship between progress and nostalgia that is similar to my own on the KitchenAid. Wlodarczyk writes, “looking back […] is often as much a part of this evolving vision of better living as looking ahead, as discourses of progresses are increasingly intermixed with elements of nostalgia in the promotion of this greener idealization of tomorrow’s home.”[26] The cultural understanding of the KitchenAid is unique, but it is also wrapped up in the understanding of the kitchen and home space at large.
While the KitchenAid has always promoted itself as an exceptional appliance, more beautiful, expensive, and functional than the rest, the brand has for a very long time been an active part in its integration into the framework of the suburban domestic space at large. Their company began producing matching appliances for the whole kitchen as early as the 1930s when the KitchenAid dishwasher was released to the public.[27] A 1936 KitchenAid advertisement announces their brand as the “world's largest manufacturers of food, kitchen, and dishwashing machines” though the image still only shows the classic KitchenAid design.[28] In 1955 KitchenAid released a line of colors that would allow designers to coordinate their kitchens, and in 1986 a refrigerator, oven, and stovetop was introduced.[29] An article in the Home Furnishing Network Newspaper claimed, KitchenAid was “taking the concept of integrated appliances to an unprecedented level” when, in 2003, eight additional portable appliances were rolled out. [30] Today KitchenAid can be a design aspect of many rooms in a home, from the kitchen to the laundry room.[31]
The KitchenAid brand’s type of horizontal integration is undoubtedly a tactic to profit on their iconic name, to trade further on the sort of nostalgic loyalty discussed thus far. Interestingly their great strength in branding that comes from the KitchenAid’s durability may also limit how much the company can profit from each consumer. Infiltrating the market of other appliances allows for further profits without resorting to planned obsolescence. A fascinating article from a 1995 issue of Incentive outlines KitchenAid’s efforts to bring interior designers onboard with their range of appliances. Apparently, the iconic brand name was failing to promote their non-mixer appliances among interior design professionals. A concerted effort to build relationships with these designers succeeded in encouraging them to use KitchenAid appliances in the home, thus quickly creating more general awareness of their integrated line.[32] Even so, the weight of the KitchenAid name in the American mind has not really been incorporated into their other products. The historical and cultural connections associated with the KitchenAid are simply too much connected with the mixer design. Their advertising while often culturally influential, has always been most successful when it relies on the classic KitchenAid shape.
When I look at the KitchenAid in my home, it speaks to me by connecting to a lot of ideas that I did not really realize had become ingrained in me. These ideas are delivered through marketing and branding, but they emerge from real social understandings and ideals. Whether or not it is pleasant to ponder, the standards held in today’s society are descendants of standards of the past, they are marked with the same genetics, but warped slowly by a shifting culture. Ultimately our objects do not define our ideas, rather our ideas define our objects. The KitchenAid has been defined by the ideas and hopes that have sprung up in the last century of its existence, and because its design has not changed, that definition has been added to, but not truly erased. The way that new technology and cultural progress create hope and speculation is perennial as a phenomenon, but usually brief for a specific type of technology. The KitchenAid’s design has managed to capture that phenomenon and hold it in stasis, so that I look at that machine and think of its meaning from a past perspective. In this way, my KitchenAid is a reminder of the traditional, but not in a simple way. Something that once represented progression and new markers of success now represents traditional success and inherited ideals, a reversal that does not fully erase the shine of expectation for the future.
Endnotes
[1] David Kindy, “For 100 Years, KitchenAid Has Been the Stand-Up Brand of Stand Mixers,” Smithsonian.com, Smithsonian Institution, 7 Aug. 2019, www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/100-years- kitchenaid-has-been-stand-brand-sta nd-mixers-180972838/.
[2] Margaret Park Johnson, "Gender Dichotomies in the Kitchen: Feminine and Masculine Qualities of Spaces and Artifacts," Thesis, (The University of North Carolina at Greensboro, 2012), 31.
[3] Kindy 2019.
[4] Noah Adams, “KitchenAid Mixers Still Proudly American,” NPR, NPR, 7 Sept. 2009, www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=112620794.
[5] Sarra Sedghi, “The Subversive History of the KitchenAid Stand Mixer,” MyRecipes, 21 Feb. 2019, www.myrecipes.com/community/history-of-kitchenaid-mixer.
[6] KitchenAid advertisement from 1935, originally published in Good Housekeeping, found in Stephanie Linning, “KitchenAid Retro Adverts Reveal the Appliance’s History,” Mail Online, February 2, 2019.
[7] Johnson 2012, 35.
[8] Shelley Nickles, “Object Lessons: Household Appliance Design and the American Middle Class, 1920-1960,” PhD diss., (University of Virginia, 1999), 221.
[9] Magazine ad for the KitchenAid Electric Stand Mixer, 1930, found in Linning, “KitchenAid Retro Adverts Reveal the Appliance’s History.”
[10] Ruby Roy Dholakia, Technology and Consumption: Understanding Consumer Choices and Behaviors (New York: Springer-Verlag, 2012), 10.
[11] Gerry Beatty, "One Look Says it All; Kitchenaid Creates a Unified Design for Major and Portable Appliances,” HFN The Weekly Newspaper for the Home Furnishing Network, (7 Apr. 2003): 50.
[12] Lucy Delap, "Housework, Housewives, and Domestic Workers: Twentieth-Century Dilemmas of Domesticity." Home Cultures 8, no. 2 (July 1, 2011): 202.
[13] Delap 2011, 197.
[14] Johnson 2012, 34.; KitchenAid advertisement from 1945, originally published in Better Homes and Gardens, found in Linning, “KitchenAid Retro Adverts Reveal the Appliance’s History.”
[15] Nickles 1999, 222.
[16] Johnson 2012, 7.
[17] Nickles 1999, 225.
[18] Adams 2009.
[19] Sedghi 2019.
[20] Aimee Tjader, "Modern brides still pine for iconic mixer; Considered a status item, family treasure and sign of a good cook, the KitchenAid stand mixer still tops gift registries," Star Tribune (Minneapolis, MN), 13 July 2011, p. 1E.
[21] John Archer, Paul J. P. Sandul, and Katherine Solomonson, eds., Making Suburbia: New Histories of Everyday America (Minneapolis, MN: Univ of Minnesota Press, 2015), 164.
[22] Tjader 2011, p. 1E.
[23] Delap 2011, 202.
[24] Johnson 2012, 32.
[25] Dholakia 2012, 2.
[26] Archer et al. 2015, 165.
[27] “KitchenAid 100 Year Anniversary,” KitchenAid, KitchenAid, 2020, www.kitchenaid.com/100year/history.html.
[28] KitchenAid advertisement from 1936, found in Linning, “KitchenAid Retro Adverts Reveal the Appliance’s History.”
[29] “KitchenAid 100 Year Anniversary.”
[30] Beatty 2003, 50.
[31] Mark R. Johnson, "Kitchenaid Luxe Laundry," Residential Architect 10, no. 1, (Jan.- Feb. 2006): 2.
[32] Judy Quinn, "KitchenAid.,” Incentive 169, no. 5 (1995): 46.
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